Life on the John Muir Trail

Walking by Thousand island Lake, Day 8

250 miles of mountains, rivers, forests, wild camping, and an awful lot of walking. In other words a whole month of many of our favourite things. Would we get tired of waking up to another day of hiking? Fed up of eating the same dried food cooked on our camping stove? Would it get boring? Can you have too much of a good thing?
For us, the answer on the JMT was an emphatic no. It really couldn't have been any better, there wasn't a single boring day, and although on many occasions it was hard to heave backpacks onto aching shoulders and lace up our walking boots over sore feet, there was never a time when we wished to be anywhere else.

On the cables up Half Dome

We set off amongst the huge granite domes of Yosemite, where waterfalls plunge over cliffs sending up rainbows in their spray. The first couple of days we climbed to some of Yosemite's high points. Half Dome is one of America's most iconic mountains and a mecca for rock climbing. Even the 'easy side' which we went up involves hauling yourself up smooth, steep granite- impossible without the aid of the metal cables put up every season for the many people who come to climb the mountain. It's pretty nerve racking on the cables but a lot of fun, and if the ascent hasn't taken your breath away the view certainly does. Far below Yosemite valley weaves between massive slabs; a scene of rock, forest, water, and more rock stretching to the horizon. From the neighbouring and higher peak of Clouds Rest it gets even better, a perfect 360 degree panorama of the Sierra Nevada.


Half Dome and Yosemite valley viewed from Clouds Rest



Alpine meadow below Cathedral Peak

The trail in Yosemite winds through forests full of gnarled trees in tones of silver, copper and bronze, with lightning struck forks dramatically silhouetted against blue skies. Occasionally the dry, golden forest scene would be broken by a verdant oasis of greenery surrounding a small creek, with wild orange lilies, purple daisies carpeting the forest floor and beautiful blue flowers lining the path. Higher up there were alpine meadows- gardens of delicate mountain flowers and miniature conifers interspersed with babbling brooks. The effect was very similar to the carefully manicured zen gardens of Japan, but without the team of gardeners- it just seemed too pretty to be wild. Here inquisitive ground squirrels live, standing to attention like meerkats by their sandy burrows.

A ground squirrel watches us pass

 As we climbed higher and camped by one of these beautiful meadows we felt a real sense of space. Leaving our camp for an evening wander over land that felt like it might never been walked on, the whole place seemed to belong just to us. Climbing onto a rock to watch the sunset colours over Cathedral Pass, we looked down into one of many valleys in the Sierra with no trails, no buildings, no people. Just the evening chorus of birds in the forest as the light faded off the cliffs and coloured the sky pink.

Cooking by the campfire

Our first resupply point was at Tuolomne meadows in Yosemite, where a box with our name on it containing our next 5 days of food waited for us in the tiny post office. Although we appreciated restocking, including a few extra luxuries like wine and chocolate digestives, we didn't really want to break the rhythm we were establishing on the trail, and so headed straight back up into the hills. We were getting into a pretty efficient routine of walking, setting up camp, collecting water and fire wood, and cooking, each taking turns with these jobs, and were really enjoying life on the trail.

Cold water jacuzzi

The next few days we travelled into a high mountain country of peaks, lakes and meadows. Here were some of the best wild swimming spots I've ever experienced, and day after day we found ourselves compelled to stop and swim in another beautiful lake, tarn, river, or waterfall. This became one of the unexpected highlights of the JMT- it could be marketed as the ultimate wild swimming trail. At one spot we camped beside a small canyon where each waterfall plunge pool tried to beat the next as they cascaded down the mountainside. We spent a fantastic 'rest day' scrambling up over waterfalls from pool to pool, sliding down slippery rocks and getting power showers and jacuzzis in the powerful flow. It was freezing, but we'd soon warm up and dry off lying on the smooth, hot rocks in the sun. This was close to Mammoth Lakes, our second resupply point, so we'd been into town to collect our food parcel, but also took the opportunity to pick up some beer and fresh food so we could feast for our day by the river, including kebabs cooked over the camp fire. It was hard to leave this spot and start walking in the heat the next day- every step was a challenge after a day's rest.

Marie Lake, one of our most beautiful swimming spots

Flaked out after a hard morning's walk

At roughly the halfway point of the trail we spent a day at a friendly campsite, cafe and bar which caters mainly to long distance hikers. This was our final resupply point and we were anticipating the next section, with heavily laden packs and a lot of climbing to do, was going to be the hardest. It was good to refuel there, drinking beer and toasting marshmallows round the fire as we got to know some of our fellow JMT hikers. From here we headed off with 2 fully packed bear canisters containing 13 days worth of food- our packs weighing in at 17kg (mine) and 20kg (Karl's). It was hard work and the climbing was slow, but we were excited about this section of the walk, which was really entering the wilderness now.

One of the highest camps of the trail at 3500 metres

As the days turned into weeks, we'd started to realise that it was all going to be over too soon. We were taking our time and savouring every camp, every valley and every pass,which would bring a new set of mountains into view each day. Walking about 10-12 miles a day doesn't sound that much, but as the trek moved into its southern half we were crossing a mountain pass nearly every day, with a lot of ascent and descent. Most days we were up at 6.30am, breaking camp to be walking by 8am. Stopping for maybe 2 hours of rest over the course of the day, we'd start  looking for our next campsite around 5pm. So it was akin to a full time job in hours spent walking, although it didn't often feel like work.

A stunning view of Evolution Lake

We frequently camped high, just below a pass to spread the big ascents over 2 days. This led to some beautiful camp sites with expansive views above the treeline. Evolution lake in particular sticks in my memory as one of the best sunset spots and camps I've ever had. It was a clear night and when the full moon rose it lit up the whole scene of lake, mountains and glacier. At another high camp we had a brilliant sighting of a coyote. He ran across the plateau we were on, pausing to stare straight at us before continuing on his way.

For a high mountain range the climate was incredibly kind to us, although it wasn't always sunny. Our first high pass was climbed in persistent rain on a day when our waterproofs hardly came off, but that was an exception. Every day we'd wake to blue skies, then sometimes in the afternoon clouds would start to roll in, occasionally turning to an evening thunderstorm. One was pretty dramatic, with hail battering the tent. Safe and dry playing cards inside and even able to cook in our porch, we didn't envy the ultra-lightweight trekkers we'd met who were carrying only a small tarp or sleeping out with no shelter at all.

Hungry hiker

As we came towards the end we were feeling fit and strong, the passes were getting higher but weren't posing any problems, and our backpacks were feeling lighter as we ate our way through the contents. Food cravings had well and truly set in by now though. We were on pretty basic, lightweight food rations. Trying to get the required daily calories was a challenge as you just can't carry enough, and although we were enjoying our rations of oatmeal, pasta, instant mash and granola bars (literally licking the bowls clean, not letting a crumb go to waste) we were always on the edge of hunger, and Karl's clothes were getting looser by the day. Unlike the first part of the trek where we had less days of food to carry, now there wasn't room in our bear barrels for any treats- no hot drinks, 1 square of chocolate each every other day and a handful of dried cranberries if we were feeling indulgent. Food was our main topic of conversation, although no doubt questions like 'If you could have one item of food right now what would it be?' didn't really help matters. We were even dreaming about food- for some reason I had a recurring dream about eating crab, which I don't even like!

Improvised birthday cake complete with 'candle'

The trail ended on the summit of Mount Whitney, which we'd timed to coincide with Karl's 35th birthday. I'd managed to smuggle a chocolate muffin (now looking more like a chocolate pancake) in my bear barrel for the last 2 weeks, which served as a very welcome birthday cake that morning.

It was a steep climb up to the highest point in the Lower 48, and we were racing the clouds as we traversed an exciting ridge path for the final couple of miles. The rocky plateau of the summit was a dramatic end to the trail. Eating our final lunch and posing for summit pictures, we could hardly believe it was all over. As we feared, even after 28 days walking the end had come around too fast and we weren't quite ready for the long descent to civilization. The conversations quickly turned from what we wanted to eat to where we want to go trekking next!



On the trail just below Mount Whitney


A final note on bears. We had two fantastic sightings of bears in Yosemite valley before we set off. One ran across the river where we were wading, before climbing a tree to eat berries. We were awe struck, although I'm glad to say he didn't grace us with a second look. Although bears were never far from our minds as we packed and unpacked our bear-proof food canisters, the only one we actually saw on our trek was our little mascot 'Bear Grylls'. He came along to remind us of our fundraising quest for Animals Asia. We're very grateful to friends and family who have kindly helped us to raise money for this charity.

If you've enjoyed reading this, please help us to get a little closer to our target at www.justgiving.com/walkingforbears.

'Bear Grylls'

Heading into the Sierra Nevada

Today, after a mad rush getting organised, we leave San Francisco for Yosemite and the John Muir Trail.

San Fran shopping spree

The logistics have been complex- we arrived here a week ago with beach clothes, and have had to get equipped with new versions of all the trekking gear we already have back at home! Everything from walking boots to clothing to a camping stove and maps. It's been one massive shopping spree.

Then we've had to stock up on all the dry food we think we'll need for the next month, as there will be hardly any opportunities to resupply. This food has been divided into the appropriate days, and posted ahead in cardboard boxes to three different points on the trek- two rural post offices and one hiker friendly resort.

This means only having to carry about 4 days food at a time for the first sections, then 12 days for the last and most challenging part of the route- we're hoping this will allow us to warm up before our bags get really heavy!

Finally, there's been all the inappropriate stuff we've bought with us from Asia to deal with. Snorkels and all manner of other things we won't need for the next month or so, have been boxed up and posted to Karl's uncle near LA. Another box is heading back to the UK, and we are left with 'just' the gear we need for a month in the american wilderness.

Organising food packs

So that's why we've not had loads of time for sightseeing! We're now ready to leave the city for the next challenge -getting a wilderness permit to allow us to enter Yosemite National Park and start the trek. The american national park system means that all overnight hikers must have permits to limit the numbers in the wilderness and hopefully keep it as pristine as we would like to find it. The advice is to reserve your permit 6 months ahead... luckily for us, 40% of permits are kept back for more spontaneous people who can turn up on the day and try their luck. So we'll be queueing outside the ranger's office for the next couple of mornings in the hope of getting into the park.

Here are a few more details of the John Muir Trail which we'll be doing. It takes between 21 and 28 days, and at no point does it touch a road. Considered one of the world's greatest treks, it runs for 233 miles through the high Sierra Nevada mountains of California, from Yosemite Valley in the north to the summit of Mount Whitney in the south. That's the highest point in the USA south of Alaska, at 4418 metres. The route travels through the wilderness, which becomes more pronounced after leaving the final resupply point and last trace of civilisation after about 9 days walking. From then on, crossing high mountain country and passes, we hope to have our first true wilderness experience.

It's the longest walk either of us have ever done in one go, and we'll be carrying a lot of gear, unlike in Nepal. We've decided it's going to be challenging enough to warrant taking the opportunity to raise a little money for a good cause! Our charity of choice is Animals Asia,  inspired by both the bears in the Sierra mountains, and our recent travels in Asia. There's more info on why we want to help this charity on my just giving page www.justgiving.com/walkingforbears. If you've enjoyed our blog (or just read it!), we'd really appreciate it if you visit the site and make a donation.

Our computer is one of the many things being posted away today, so I must go. I'll leave this post with some words from John Muir himself:

'Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.'

Harriet


NOTE: The text on the Just Giving page doesn't appear to be working at the time of writing this. So I'm just going to copy the text in here. You should still be able to donate through the just giving page:

• We'll be walking the John Muir Trail for over 200 miles through the Sierra Nevada mountains in California. We're lucky enough to be able to share this environment with wild black bears, who roam free in this beautiful wilderness.
  While we pack our bear-proof canisters and plan our route, it made me think about the bears who are not so lucky- those in cages being milked for their bile in Asia. It seems apt to try to raise a little for their cause, while we scan the horizon (or maybe even closer!) in hope of glimpsing their wild relatives.
  There's another reason we'd like to support the work of Animals Asia. As animal lovers, travelling in Asia has been hard at times. I've felt pretty helpless as a vet, unable to do anything for the animals we've seen suffering. Here, if you put your hand out to a dog, it cowers waiting to be beaten. In parts of Indonesia we were having to avoid eating dog. Of course people's priorities are different in third world countries, but when you see half a dog for sale in a food market (where, according to the lonely planet, they are dragged out of their cages and bludgeoned to death), it makes you want to do something. They trust us whatever we do and they deserve help where we can give it. 
  For now, the best way for us to help is by fundraising, and Animals Asia is doing fantastic work with both bringing an end to bear farming and improving dog and cat welfare in countries where not many other people are looking out for them.
  The JMT is the longest walk we've ever done in one go, and we'll be carrying all our gear and camping every night. It will take around 25 days to walk through high mountain country from Yosemite, through Sequoia and Kings Canyon national parks, culminating on the summit of Mount Whitney . This is the highest point in the USA outside Alaska at 4418 metres. It's definitely going to be a challenge! I know I'm always forgetting to sponsor people for things- but we're going to be walking for almost a whole month so you have lots of time to donate a pound or two! Or, better still, do it now and spur us on our way...
  Thanks for reading, 
  Harriet and Karl

California dreamin'?

Street car in San Francisco

It started almost as soon as we landed in the USA. We were sitting on our backpacks at a bus stop, waiting for a bus to Los Angeles, when a scary looking guy wandered by, lifted a bottle of spirits in a brown bag from his pocket and downed it. Some other dodgy characters passed by, staring at us. We held onto our bags and began to feel a little on edge- this was not what we had expected. Two bus journeys later, in downtown LA, things got worse. Just a couple of blocks walk from Broadway, full of theatres, restaurants and people, the atmosphere was completely different. We were suddenly very aware that we were carrying all our belongings on our backs, and feeling pretty vulnerable. The only open place in sight was a food hall advertising 'hot food coupons accepted here'. There were no cars on the roads, no taxis to hail. People were hanging out on street corners, they were yelling at each other, they were drinking, and they were staring at us. Karl's facebook status that day describes the scene: 'Just accidentally walked onto the set of Pulp Fiction. Hobos with their life's belongings in shopping trolleys, toothless crack-head hookers on street corners, coupon food halls with drunks outside and the whole area smells of p1ss. We ran away!'

I feel like I'm fairly well travelled and worldly-wise- but I don't remember anywhere that I've felt so uncomfortable walking along a street. Giving up on getting to the bus station on foot, we turned on our heels, made it back to the main drag and found a trendy little cafe to hide in. It was a different world in there- cool music, free wifi, massive waffles, trendy arty types and students chilling out. Our first taste of the two very different sides of American society. When the waitress asked me, with a smile, how I was doing I felt like crying, and we ate our massive sandwiches with a generous portion of relief! We had learnt our lesson, and hailed a taxi for the short journey to the bus station. Travelling America by public transport may be harder than we anticipated.

4th July fireworks

San Francisco has been better, but still a shock. We were totally unprepared for the problems you see here. There are homeless people on every street corner, a large proportion with physical or mental disabilities. The smell of marijuana is only beaten by the stink of urine, and beggars are pretty confident in asking for a dollar. It's hard to feel generous when they're sitting outside a liquor store with one hand out, the other holding a can in a brown paper bag. One guy's placard read 'Why lie, I want beer'! I felt that, as a vet in Worksop, I'd experienced a fair cross section of society, but it just doesn't compare to what you see here. I certainly won't be looking at the job ads! Some of it is just tragic, like the lady I saw circling a tree. It has certainly made me appreciate the situation in the UK, where we may complain about the benefits system, but we don't have starving, disturbed people in desperate need on every street corner. People here seem to have learnt to ignore it, but we just can't get over the poverty in this leading first world nation. Maybe we have a jilted view- some quick research on google suggests that San Francisco and Los Angeles are the capitals of homelessness and drug addiction in the USA.

In a classic American diner

Despite all this there is still a lot to like about San Francisco. The architecture is great- carved stone facades on the early skyscrapers, others faced with glass, and modern villas lining the steep streets along which old-fashioned street cars run. We're staying in a really nice hostel, and have spent most of our time here running around between outdoor stores and the post office getting organised for our trek. Little sightseeing has been done, but we enjoyed the 4^th July fireworks by the waterfront and like the bohemian atmosphere in the bars and shops. The Golden Gate Bridge, rising out of the fog the city is infamous for, really is very cool, and we could even watch dolphins frolicking in the water below us. The scenery that surrounds the city all adds to the appeal and makes us want to explore the Californian coastline. It's surprisingly cold here, with wind whistling down the canyons formed by tower blocks, and a fog often hanging over the whole place, so we're glad to have exchanged our Asia backpacking gear for some more appropriate clothing. We've benefited from the generous clothing sizes, which mean that both of us have been able to buy children's size down jackets at half the adult price- thank god for fat american kids! The huge portion sizes mean we can get by on two meals a day (one of which is the free hostel breakfast!), and even the ice creams seem to be large enough to feed a family. We're enjoying it while it lasts and before our dry food trekking rations start in a few days!

Harriet

Just a little ice cream!

Trying out our new trekking gear, Golden Gate bridge

A taste of Japan

We love Japan! I'm not even sure I can explain why. I didn't have any huge expectations really- I thought it would be interesting, but busy and crowded and, erm, full of Japanese tourists!

Water trickling in a zen garden, Kyoto

Our first day, wandering along the 'Path of Philosophy' in Kyoto, was one of my favourite days of the whole trip. In the very first temple we visited I was struck by a sense of calm. It was so quiet and peaceful, padding around barefoot on the wooden walkways that divide up gardens of gravel, moss and dwarf conifers. We sat on tatami mats drinking cups of green tea, with the sound of water trickling over bamboo, the smell of incense and cedar wood, and the view of maple leaves overlapping in a criss-cross starry pattern above us. The gardens were stunning- everything picture perfect, not a leaf out of place, the gravel immaculately raked, the trees pruned and the moss trimmed. I wouldn't have expected to like them so much (not exactly being a neat freak myself!) but there was something very affecting about it all. A zen like state remained with me all day, happily ambling from one beautiful temple and garden to another.

Sushi in Kyoto

All over the city everything was equally tidy and perfect. Not a piece of litter in sight, not a horn to be heard- it was just the tonic after two months in Indonesia! We loved the little family run cafes and noodle bars, where you order from a vending machine after looking at plastic immitations of the meals on offer in the window. One of our best food experiences was in a sushi restaurant where you could watch the chefs at work. Every time the door opened as a new customer came in they would all warmly cry out 'welcome' in unison, and when you left to more cries of 'thanks you and goodbye' one of the chefs would accompany you outside, bowing all the time.

Electric city in Tokyo

From Kyoto we sped to Tokyo by the bullet train- expensive, but something that we felt had to be done while in Japan. It was on time of course (trains run almost the length of the country between the cities about every 6 minutes!) and just as smooth as expected. We stared out of the window as countryside and towns passed in a blur. Like everything in Japan it was very quiet, and businessmen dozed beside us for the 140 minutes it took to cover 400 kilometres.

Tokyo itself has so many aspects to it that it's hard to get to grips with in just a few days. It's massive, more like a group of cities all merged together, but with plenty of green spaces as well. We tried to get a taste of some of the sub-cultures at work, from anime obsessed 'geek chic' teenagers in the electric city, to 'cosplay' (costume play) groups who meet up at weekends to dress as manga characters, to the gucci shopping 'ladies who lunch'. There's a bit of everything here, and it's all fascinating. The bright neon lights of Shinjuku were just how I imagined from 'Lost in Translation', with karaoke booths and huge TV screens everywhere. Just around the corner was an area of really cool little beer bars where a young after-work crowd spilled out onto the streets in the summer evening.

Neon lights of  Shinjuku in Tokyo

We visited the largest fish market in the world, marvelling at the size of the tuna on offer, rode an elevator up a glass shaft to the 47^th floor of a skyscraper for a bird's eye view over the city (the only adrenaline rush I've ever got from riding a lift!), and visited a tranquil oasis right in the middle of the CBD. It's fun, safe, clean and easy- there's an awful lot the Japanese have got right. We kept thinking 'oh that's clever, why don't we do it that way at home?'! A one week visit might actually change the way I live my life! Just an inspiring destination, and one that has instantly moved onto our 'one to return to' list!


Harriet

Japanese maple leaves

Leaving Asia

It's hard to believe that we've now spent over seven months in Asia, or that before this trip it was a continent I'd never visited. Looking back at the highlights I wouldn't even know where to start.

We've deliberated for a long time over where to head from here, but have now made a decision! Much as we've loved backpacking in Asia, we're itching to get back into the hills. That was where this adventure started after all - those fifty amazing days trekking in the Himalayas. The most awe inspiring views we've ever seen, the coldest we've ever been, walking through amazing scenery day after day.

The Himalayas- where it all began

With that in mind, it's time to head for the mountains again! We love trekking independently- something that's not really possible in this part of the world. So we're swapping the beaches of South East Asia for a summer in North America. Not a destination that originally featured in our plan (such as it was!), but that's the nature of this trip. So far we've timed the seasons in our destinations pretty well, and as the summer in the northern hemisphere starts it seems sensible to take advantage of it. We want to experience the classic scenery of the national parks of the USA- so familiar from pictures  yet neither of us has ever been.

Our initial plan is to attempt a long distance mountain trail- something we wouldn't be able to do on a normal fortnight's holiday. Lots more planning is needed first, but we think it will be the John Muir Trail- a 220 mile walk through the Sierra Nevada mountains of California. It travels from the cliffs and pine forests of Yosemite, through Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, to finish on Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the states outside Alaska at 4400 metres. The walk is a similar distance to the Coast to Coast in England although rather different in every other way- crossing wilderness, wild camping, never crossing a road and travelling through bear country. 

We're under no illusions; it's going to be hard! Crossing high passes and swollen rivers with big packs full of camping gear- food rationed and carried in bear proof containers- but we think we're ready for the challenge. We can't wait to camp, to experience wilderness, cook outside, wash in streams, and to get back into that exhausting but satisfying routine of walking day after day.

Sundowners in Indonesia

As we prepare to leave Asia and fly across the Pacific, there are some things we'll be happy to leave behind and others we're going to pine for. 

Actually, we're probably going to miss all of it! But we've composed a couple of lists to remind us of some of the things we've laughed at and moaned about while we've been here:

Some of the things we've missed

Breakfast, as a separate meal rather than just another dose of rice or noodles. Muesli or fruit salad were last sighted in Thailand!

Knives. We're not sure why forks and spoons made it over here but knives got lost on the way. Cutting things with a spoon just doesn't work as well!

The smoking ban. Oh, how I've missed this! Here, everyone smokes everywhere- holding a cigarette right in your face in a cramped bemo with no ventilaton.

Pavements. The kind without gaping holes down to smelly drains, or cracks big enough to fall in.

Light switches you can touch, without either danger of electrocution or getting a year's worth of grime on your hand.

Running water, ideally in a bathroom, best of all one you dare enter barefoot.

You have to look where you're going in Indonesia!

Some of the things we'll miss

Hello Mister! I imagine we won't get this shouted to us in the States. Children won't run into the road to high-five us as we pass, and we won't feel like celebrities posing for pictures with every family we meet.

Our fishy friends. We've spent so much time underwater I've started to feel like I know the tropical fish personally. I can think of nothing more relaxing than floating over coral watching life on the reef.

Hammocks. When we eventually live in a house it's going to be strung full of them!

The sun. We've got pretty accustomed to seeing this all day, every day. Looking at weather forecasts again will be weird.

Scooters. Zooming around on our own transport and, when it breaks, getting things fixed immediately for a few pounds.

Beer. I know this is available in North America, but we probably won't be able to afford it there!

Beach huts. We've had some horrible rooms, but we've also had some great ones. I'm writing this from the candlelit verandah of our current driftwood decorated hut, listening to waves lapping on the sand...sigh.

Buses. Mixed feelings about this! Yes, they're cramped, crowded and bumpy, but we've been on some memorable journeys, met lots of locals and never had to wait for one or look at a timetable. Greyhound coaches just won't be as fun, and they're bound not to let us ride on the roof.

Menus, and their amusing translations into English. Anyone for a coodled drink?

Coconuts, enjoyed straight from the tree.

Bus travel in Alor, Indonesia

A coconut, as fresh as it comes!

But first we have one last destination left in Asia, which we're really excited about; a week in Japan. It will only be a taste (which is all we can afford!), but we're hoping to cram it full of quintessential Japanese experiences, from bullet trains to zen gardens. Then all change to fly to Los Angeles, just in time for independence day in San Francisco. 

Watch this space!

Harriet

It goes without saying, we're going to miss beaches like this!

Close Encounters

How we spent our first anniversary

The sensation is exhilarating, but tinged with just a little bit of fear. We are whizzing along over a seabed of sand and rubble - a fast current of over 5 knots carrying us across this barren moonscape. An occasional boulder sized head of coral is all that breaks the monotonous terrain, and means that you have to keep one eye on the direction of travel lest you collide with them. You can't help but put your arms out like a pair of wings, and if you didn't have a regulator in your mouth then you would be crying out “Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!”.

Harriet learning to fly

Then we hear it - the 'tap tap tap' of Ed, the dive leader, indicating that there's something of interest. As we've been prepped, this means it's time to hunker down against the seabed and find something safe to grab onto, as the current swings us round to point us up stream. Beyond Ed I can just make it out. The visibility is very good at about 20 metres, but it is only the vaguest of shapes at first, nothing more than a shadow. Slowly it becomes more defined, gliding towards us a couple of feet off the bottom. Soon we can see its wing tips curling up and straightening as they beat in a slow, graceful motion. By now it's clearly identifiable, although there was never any doubt - they don't call this place Manta Point for nothing.

This first Manta Ray is massive, with a wingspan of maybe 3 metres, and it's heading upstream, oblivious to the current we're fighting. It comes up on our left hand side, only 4 metres away, before banking right and gliding straight through the middle of the group. I'm dumb struck, in absolute awe as I stare into the face of this alien creature.

Close encounters of the Manta kind

A tight feeling in my chest brings me back to reality, I've been holding my breath for the past 30 seconds without realising it. I take a long exhale and check my pressure and depth gauges. When I look back up, the Manta is some distance off to our right, gradually fading back into the blue.

Letting go of our rocks, the current immediately picks us up and we are flying once more. But no sooner has the first manta gone then we hear it again...'tap tap tap'. Finding purchase on another rock, this time there are three shapes. The leader is huge, a beautiful black spaceship. I fumble with my underwater camera and manage to start recording some video. I'm so focused on filming the leader as he passes within a metre of me that I don't see the second ray. He buzzes past only inches above me, and I instinctively duck. I can imagine the pair chuckling to themselves over that one.

We release ourselves once more and glide on. The taps now come thick and fast, no sooner has one Manta disappeared then another is approaching. They seem more than just tolerant of our presence, they are positively inquisitive, and you can sense the intelligence behind that alien face.

Manta 1 on final approach

Ed signals once more, but I can't see the Manta this time. It's only when I'm within 5 metres that I notice the grey shape lying still on the seabed, a 2 metre long white tip reef shark. This guy is a little more shy, stirring himself from his bed, and with a casual flick of his tail he disappears.

By now the current has eased somewhat, and the previously barren floor is populated with soft corals and anemones, swaying like fields of wheat blown by the wind. We come across a turtle, nestled down amongst soft coral pillows. They always appear chilled out creatures, but you can tell this one is particularly languid. We 'tiptoe' past quietly so as not to disturb him.

Sleeping beauty

Our air is starting to get low now, so we make a safety stop at 5 metres, hanging around a large coral boulder and checking out the reef fish. But you can tell that everyone's minds are elsewhere, thinking about the past 40 minutes and the amazing experience we have just had. We surface, and the smiles on everyone's faces tell the story. With the regulators out of our mouths we can finally communicate our excitement. The smiles last all day.

This was the most memorable day of the five we spent on Kanawa, a tiny island off the coast of Flores and on the edge of the Komodo National Park. The island is uninhabited save a dozen simple beach bungalows, although we took the rare opportunity to unpack our tent and camp under a berry tree. Kanawa is fringed by a bleached white sand beach, which gives way to turquoise waters dotted with patches of coral, before dropping off into the dark blue of deep water. We've seen more than our fair share of priceless islands on our travels, but this one might just take first prize.

Desert island castaway on Kanawa

From Kanawa we took a boat over to explore Komodo Island itself, whose jagged savannah covered ridges look like the land that time forgot. And forgotten it must have been, for the Komodo dragon is like something out of pre-historic times. Getting within six foot of one you realise that round here man isn't necessarily at top of the food chain. Although usually placid, occasionally they do attack and kill people, and it's best to stay behind your guide who is armed with a forked stick!

Komodo Dragon basking in the sun following his late lunch

With only a week or so left in Indonesia, we reluctantly had to tear ourselves away from Kanawa, and head to the much busier islands of Lombok and Bali. It's quite a shock to see tourists suddenly outnumbering locals. A few days surfing on the south coast of Lombok was followed by a day up in the hills of the lush interior, before descending to the coast for a last bit of beach time. 

Our final stop in Indonesia is the town of Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali. Although the traffic choked streets and constant calls of “Taxi Mister?!” are a little off putting, just a short walk away from the hustle and bustle is the rice field scenery that Bali is famed for. It's very interesting to watch the local Balinese families head off to the temples in smart colourful costumes with wicker baskets of tasty offerings for the Gods. After meeting Muslims in Java and devout Christians in Sulawesi, experiencing a little of the Hindu culture found only in Bali is an interesting way to end our time in this fascinating country.

Karl

 

The sun sets on our time in Indonesia